When saying we go to Cyprus, many people imagine the European holiday destination with promenades lining up the golden sand beaches. For us, travelling to Cyprus has a different meaning. We headed straight up to the North to see how 1974 changed everything for many, everything for a whole country.
The island is split in two. The North – Turkish occupied Northern Cyprus: Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). The South – Republic of Cyprus. Divided in the middle by UN patrolled 180 km long buffer zone. Bullets in houses are still visible today; the once-blooming city of Varosha is abandoned almost 50 years later. Turkish occupation left some places silent, yet history screams to be remembered and places to be explored.
If you plan to visit TRNC, you might have many unanswered questions, and we created this article to answer all of them. We will tell you how to cross the borders, how to travel around, what to see, where to sleep, where to get to remote places and much more.
BASIC INFORMATION
- Currency: TL, Turkish lira
- Language: Turkish – people in hotels and restaurants generally have good English as well
- Religious: Islam
- Visa: Generally, you don’t need a visa to enter TRNC
COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS
Updated in March 2023: TRNC lifted all Covid 19 restrictions for everyone.
QUICK OVERVIEW
Lefkosa (Nicosia)
Come to see the UN patrolled buffer zone in the last divided city in the world. Cross the border from Nicosia to Lefkosa to find out you are still in one capital, although in a different country.
Famagusta
The perfect base for exploring the ghost town Varosha, which stays completely abandoned after occupation. Explore the mosque that used to be a church before the Turkish came.
Karpas peninsula
Enjoy the wilderness of this remote area known for its wild donkeys, abandoned golden beaches and amazing greenery. Many donkeys wander around this peninsula, and it is impossible that you miss them.
Girne/Kyrenia
The compact city centre with a cute harbour. Base yourself in Kyrenia to explore castles like St. Hilarion peak or Bellapais Abbey. Make sure you visit off the beaten path village of Karmi, which we fell in love with.
After the Turkish occupation in 1974, when Greek Cypriots were forced to run away to the South, nothing was the same anymore. The difference between the South and North is abnormal and heavily visible. The scars made to the northern part are still sensitive today. Many people lost their lives and homes without any compensation. In Lefkosa, bullet holes in houses are clearly visible even though it is almost 50 years later. What once used to be a church today serves as a mosque.
It doesn’t take long to realise how many abandoned houses and businesses are all around the country. The military presence is huge and well marked by the signs forbidding you to take photographs in a particular area.
HOW TO GET TO TRNC
The best way is to fly to the Republic of Cyprus first. We took a flight to Larnaca airport, from where it is easy to get to Nicosia, the city where you want to cross the land borders to TRNC.
Flights to Cyprus from Europe are very cheap. You can find amazing deals for as little as €15. We flew from Katowice in Poland with WizzAir.
Find exclusive flight deals here.
At Larnaca airport, find a Cyprus Public Transport stall where you can get a bus card for €5 (you can get 1 card for as many people as you wish). With this card, you have a cheaper rate for buses instead of €2 you pay €1.5, and the more expensive evening and weekend rate (€3.5) does not apply to you with this card. Even if you use it just to go from Larnaca to Nicosia and back, it is worth it. You can top up the card at any bus station. For a bus schedule, download their PameApp.
Bus number 425 goes from Larnaca Airport to Larnaca central station, and you find it upstairs outside the airport building. One way costs €1.5 with the card.
Then take bus 42 to Nicosia (€4 with the card). The bus stop at the entrance to old town Nicosia, roughly 800 m from the border crossing to TRNC.
CROSSING THE GREEN LINE IN NICOSIA
The Ledras Street border crossing from Nicosia (Greek part) to Lefkosa is just walking through the checkpoint on one street. First, the Cyprus side checks your passport and Covid-19 status. It literally takes a few seconds, then you walk through the UN area, which is basically all abandoned and is the only way where you see a little bit of inside this zone. After 50 m, you get to another checkpoint on the Turkish side. You again show your passport and Covid-19 status (anyway, nobody wanted to see it on both sides, but that’s just our case).
If you need to make a test before crossing the border to TRNC, there is a test centre 100 m from the border, on Ledra street. You can’t miss it. It costs €5 for a rapid antigen test, results are ready within 20 minutes, and you don’t need any reservation.
And hurray, welcome to the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. You made it!
Read: Travel off the beaten path in Cyprus
HOW TO TRAVEL AROUND TRNC
Buses are running between the cities Lefkosa, Famagusta and Girne without problems. However, if you want to visit the places outside the cities, which are actually the reason to come here, you need to rent a car.
After road tripping in Jordan, we thought it is the best idea to do the same in North Cyprus. We rented a car with Sun Rent a Car as we heard only good things about them. We had a car for 5 days for 1850 TL (€113). You get a car with an empty tank and return the same way. They don’t take any deposit. Note, in TRNC, there doesn’t exist insurance that includes an excess of €0. So in case of an accident, there is usually €400 excess pay.
If you want to be sure your car is waiting for you and have a contract before arriving choose a car on Discovercars.com. It is the best platform to book a car in advance.
Check the best deals for rental car at Discovercars.com.
Travelling around TRNC is like stepping back in time. With its population of around 300 thousand inhabitants, you spend most of the time driving through the farmlands, greenery, and small villages. The main roads are in great condition, but once you turn to get to the castles on the hill or Karpaz peninsula, the road usually gets narrow for one car only, making it a great adventure. Especially once you realise there is a steep cliff on one side and a rock wall on the other. With the low traffic, as in TRNC, for sure is, there is nothing to worry about.
The worst roads we experienced were at Karpaz peninsula, where there are more holes than you can’t count. Count with that as we were able to drive only 20 km per hour in some parts.
Suppose you want to cross the borders with a rental car. In that case, it is easier and safer, especially with insurance, to return the car in the North and then again rent a car in the South. This is exactly what we did. Anyway, there are several border crossings along the buffer zone where you can cross with a car if you are still keen to do it.
INTERNET, SIM CARD
Internet in TRNC is widely available. All hotels and restaurants/cafes have quite a good connection, at least we never had any troubles. Sometimes the speed was slower, but it was fixed soon.
Since we made a road trip, we bought a sim card in Lefkosa, and we used data a lot during our travels. It is also very cheap to get a sim card, so why not get one. There is a phone store next to the breakfast place Simit Dünyası. The best option is to get a sim card from Turkcell that offers 3 packages, either 6, 8 or 10 GB of data for 129, 149 or 169 TL (€8, €9,20 or €11) including some minutes and SMS. Coverage is perfect all-around TRNC, including the remote Karpaz peninsula.
FOOD & DRINKS
Food in TRNC is very cheap (especially at the time of our visit when the Turkish lira was very low). You can expect to try the delicious kebabs, dörum, hummus, pide with melted halloumi inside (our favourite) or traditional lentil soup Mercimek.
Of course, you can’t avoid Turkish coffee, which is absolutely delicious here, and tea is literally available on every corner in all cities. Make sure you drink delicious ayran with every meal.
MONEY & PRICES
TRNC, in general, is a very cheap destination – services, buses, and food is for a very low price but don’t expect to travel on a budget because, as mentioned, you need to rent a car. There is not much accommodation which means higher prices.
Tea – 6 TL (€0,3)
Dörum kebab – 40 TL (€2,4)
Pide – 45 TL (€2,75)
Soup – 25 TL (€1,5)
Rental car per day in off season 370 TL (€22)
Fuel (one liter of gasoline 95) – 17 TL (€1)
Budget accommodation – 220 – 491TL (€14-€30), but bear in mind in the summer season, it is double the price
There are ATMs and exchange money offices frequently in cities, surprisingly there is no withdrawal fee.
Sometimes, the prices are either in € or TL, anyway, it is always better to pay in a local currency Turkish Lira, especially during the time of our visit in March 2022, the difference was quite big.
INSURANCE
Make sure you have proper insurance with high coverage. We already experienced a couple of accidents during years of our travel when the insurance saved our budget. We have a good experience with IATI insurance with great coverage and customer service. Readers of Broken Navigation get an exclusive 5% discount.
Get your 5% discount with IATI Insurance here.
LEFKOSA (NICOSIA)
We started our trip in Lefkosa. There is the easiest and closest land border crossing to TRNC after landing in Larnaca. The main street leaning from the border patrols can be busy during the day. It is a popular day trip for travellers visiting Cyprus but wait till afternoon, and you find yourself in a quite empty city.
Lefkosa (Nicosia in the Republic of Cyprus) is the last divided capital in the world. When you visit both parts, you soon realise the huge difference the separation made. During our stay in Lefkosa, we visited Nicosia for an afternoon trip, especially to see the buffer zone from the other side.
TOP THINGS TO SEE IN LEFKOSA
All the main sights are within walking distance of an old city, and you can easily explore it in one day. We stayed for 2 nights to have a chance to try some local cafes and restaurants and enjoy the atmosphere.
UN patrolled buffer zone
This zone of no one stretches 180 km across the country. Once you walk around the city, you end up multiple times bumping into this line with, of course, no possibility of entry. Sometimes there is a wall, sometimes a gate or just a pile of old useless things to unable the entry.
Yigitler Burcu Park
While exploring the UN buffer zone, make sure you go to this park to get an unusual view of the other side of the town – Nicosia, through a barbed-wire fence. You find here a kids’ playground that was left many years untouched and a UN guard tower.
Büyük Han
The best example of Ottoman caravanserai architecture in the town that once served as a hotel for travellers. It is in great condition as it was renovated in the 1990s. Except for the photogenic place, you find cafes, an old library, and some workshops here.
Samabahçe Quarter
Cyprus’s first social housing project consisted of 70 whitewashed cottages constructed using only local materials. When walking through the streets of Samabahçe Quarter, we felt like in Greece.
Ledra street
If you are not into a souvenir shop and touristic restaurants, make your way further away and roughly after 100 m, you find yourself in a more traditional Lefkosa, with local restaurants, cafes and real life.
Nicosia
Since we didn’t plan on travelling to Nicosia from the Cyprus side, we made a short trip from Lefkosa. Once again, we crossed the borders and spent a few hours walking in Nicosia’s old town. We weren’t very impressed as this side is very commercial; however, we liked the bench by the UN zone right next to the border crossing. Again, if you visit Nicosia, everything is within walking distance.
After crossing to south Nicosia, you find a completely different world. Everything is suddenly shining. The main boulevard is crowded with tourists, and the vibe is like a typical holiday destination. Which Nicosia actually is.
North, in comparison, is very opposite. Once you cross the border for a few metres, it seems like nothing has changed. There are still touristic restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops and tourists. But once you make your way further, you realise there are only locals, a few other travellers and you. It is also more alive and noisy, lively atmosphere and what changed the most are…yes, you guessed it right. Prices. But to your advantage. It is much cheaper in North Cyprus than in the South.
Where to eat in Lefkosa
Simit Dünyası – a fantastic breakfast place located on Girne SD street, a few steps from Basket Pansiyon. It seems everyone coming here for breakfast, and let’s say it is more like a bakery. You can get some pastry with various fillings. Just pick one, and they heat it for you. Make sure you order an ayran drink and Turkish coffee. It gets crowded with locals and tourists every day. They open from 6 am.
Hatay Medeniyetler Sofrasi – right next door from Simit Dünyası. They serve meat in wraps, kebabs, hummus, pides, baklava and other traditional food. It tastes amazing.
Kumda Kahve – a beautiful hipster cafe where locals gather, especially during evenings. Get a Turkish coffee or tea and enjoy the atmosphere. If you are on a budget, don’t worry, the prices are low. Just note, in TRNC, people smoke inside the cafes.
Where to stay in Lefkosa
Budget I Baskent Pansiyon – We stayed here as the price was just €14 and the location couldn’t be better. However, it is only for the brave ones as it is far from any standard you are used to. We had to sleep in our sleeping bags. But again, you get what you pay for. Internet was amazing, though.
Mid-Range I Pedieos Guesthouse – a beautiful traditional house with a garden and a nice seating area. Breakfast is included. Heating/aircon, the fridge might be useful, and the rooms have a private bathroom.
Luxury I Hotel Valide Hang Konak – an amazing photogenic house where the owners really did a great job decorating. This is home away from home. Exceptional breakfast is included.
FAMAGUSTA (GAZIMAGUSA)
Famous for its city walls and historical sights or as a base for exploring the ghost town of Varosha. Famagusta is also a popular destination for day trips from the Republic of Cyprus. During our visit in March, however, it was a very quiet city, and we enjoyed the atmosphere very much.
Top things to see in Famagusta
Lala Mustafa Pasa Camii Mosque
Once known as a St. Nicolas Cathedral, that was converted into a mosque. What a fascinating sight. It was amazing to see for us – your eyes tell it is a church, but once you come in, you realise it is a mosque. Open outside prayer times. Free entry.
Venetian walls
You find these walls all around the old city. Find the stairs near Land Gate and climb to the top to get a fantastic view over Famagusta and Lala Mustafa Pasa Came Mosque and other historic sites.
St George of the Greeks Church
These ruins of a Gothic church have a very romantic vibe with perfect photo opportunities. Come during lunchtime when the sun makes a beautiful play of shades. After exploration, have lunch in a nearby local restaurant that we loved. We will tell you about it in the food section.
Varosha
The main reason we came to Famagusta. Varosha used to be an absolutely timeless beach resort town, where famous and rich people came to enjoy their summer vacation. Resorts lined up the white sand beach, and the city was booming. Then, the Turkish invasion came in 1974, and the city went silent. People ran away, and since that time, nobody ever returned back. Varosha became a ghost town that now serves as a military base. It is now partially open to the public. We rented a bicycle, and we went to explore this forgotten part of TRNC.
Essential reading: Visit Varosha, The Ghost Town – Ultimate Travel Guide.
WHERE TO EAT IN FAMAGUSTA
Fikretin Yeri – you find it in the same street as St George of the Greeks Church. This family-run little restaurant serves the best traditional lentil soup, and they grill the meat on the outside grill. If we ever go back to Famagusta, we will eat here at least three times a day.
Otherwise, there are so many restaurants and cafes around Famagusta. Choose the one you like the most.
Where to stay in Famagusta
If you have a car we recommend you to stay in one of the hotels close to the beach North of Famagusta. Especially in the off-season, when the prices are low.
Budget I Mimosa Beach Hotel – if you come off-season like us, take advantage of the low prices and stay in one of the resorts by the beach. We enjoyed a night in Mimoza even though it is not the style we usually choose. But having a warm shower, quiet room, buffet breakfast, and fast internet is something we can’t resist every now and then just to recharge our batteries during long term travel. €27/night.
Mid-range I Alp Apartment – whole apartment for an amazing price, close to the beach. It is usually 2 bedrooms, so it is perfect even if you travel as a group. The apartment has everything you might need – a fully equipped kitchen, washing machine, etc.
Luxury I Salamis Park Hotel – 5-star accommodation with a hammam. Each room has its own balcony. Breakfast is included, and the hotel is right at the beach.
KARPAS PENINSULA
The best area for a road trip in TRNC is, without a doubt, the Karpas peninsula. What makes it unique is its remoteness and wilderness. We had such a good time just driving around and enjoying the green scenery full of olive groves, wild white sand beaches, and beautiful castles. You need your own transport to explore this part as no buses run here.
Top things to see in the Karpas peninsula
Golden Beach
You can adore it either from a viewpoint by the main road or make your way down to the beach and walk along its wild coast. There is no house in plain sight. There are not many places in the world with such an amazing beach that is completely abandoned. It makes us wonder what the world used to look like before all the development. Beach itself is beautiful, especially during sunset.
If you arrive in September, you are lucky as the beach is a nesting ground for turtles. Before you go, contact SPOT (Society for the Protection of Turtles).
Be prepared to drive slowly as the road is a bumpy ride. We could drive only 20-30 km per hour maximum, although the road is paved but with many holes and damages.
Wild donkeys
Follow the road from Golden Beach towards Monastery. This is where you meet most of the wild donkeys. They are used to cars and people, and they can be very cheeky. Once you open the car window, be sure one or more donkeys will squeeze their head inside the car, searching for carrots that tourists usually bring them.
Monastery of Apostolos Andreas
After you enjoy multiple stops just to pet the donkeys, you will eventually reach this monastery right at the beach shore. It is worth a look inside this most important religious site. Many Greek Cypriots make a long trek on pilgrimage to visit this monastery. Free entry. Open from 8am to 6pm.
Kantara Castle
One of three romantic crusader castles in TRNC. Once you climb up, you will be rewarded with a 360° view over the Kyrenia mountain range. It is located roughly two hours from Kyrenia and offers probably the best view over the Karpas peninsula. Entry is 10 TL (€0.6). It is open from 9am to 5pm from June to September and till 3:30pm from October to May.
Panagia Kanakaria Monastery
When we arrived at church Panagia Kanakaria Monastery, it was pouring rain. We just jumped out quickly from the car to walk around the locked up building, took a few photos and continued driving. The monastery is beautiful, though, especially the entrance is impressive with the palm trees in front of it. If you want to get inside, you need to find a mukhtar (elected leader) that lives in the village and holds the key. Free entry.
Where to stay in the Karpas peninsula
Mid-range I Glaro Garden Hotel – we had a blast in this family-run bungalows. We arrived after sunset, searching for a place to sleep and found this cute place. We were the only guests in March, and they hosted us like their own family. The homemade breakfast is delicious. It is a paradise place, we highly recommend you stay here.
Mid-range I Celebi Garden Hotel – another great option we were considering. Located in the middle of nature, with excellent views from your room. Breakfast is included.
Luxury I Villa Lembos – if you are searching for a resort, this Villa might be a perfect choice. With its great review and walking distance from the beach, you can also enjoy the restaurant inside the resort.
KYRENIA (GIRNE)
The last stop of our TRNC road trip. We arrived at coastal city Kyrenia after sunset and were greeted by never-ending traffic. It took us a long time to get through all the queues in and around the city, and it seemed like a normal thing as it happened every day of our stay. Anyway, Kyrenia and its surroundings have a lot to offer.
Top things to see in Kyrenia
Kyrenia Castle
Right in the middle of Kyrenia’s old town, the walls of Kyrenia castle sit next to the picturesque port. The entry fee is 20 TL (1,2€), and you can get a perfect view of the harbour from the top. It is open from June to September, 9am – 7pm, and 9am – 5pm from September to May.
Port
There can’t be a complete visit to Kyrenia without wandering along this picturesque harbour. Possibly the most beautiful part of an old town. There are many restaurants, and the atmosphere is lively. Sit on the rock wall to soak in this cute place. Some of the boats in the harbour are pretty admirable. Make sure you walk the path that leads between the port and the sea.
Trips around Kyrenia
Antiphonitis Kilisesi
We left the car up the hill as the road down the castle seemed quite steep for our car. We walked through the forest trail for 500 m to reach the church. It was the most beautiful one we have seen in TRNC from the inside. The painting is amazing. The entry fee is 10 TL (€0,6). Open from 9am to 4pm.
Flag
With good visibility, you can see this flag made of painted rocks on the mountain all the way from Nicosia. You find it when you drive towards Panagia Apsinthiotissa. The flag lights up in the evening.
St. Hilarion peak
You drive on a small road again that quickly takes you to the top. Along these 5 km uphill, you drive through the military territory. They have a base from both sides, with signs not to take any photos, and they control it. On the day of our visit, there were a lot of gunshots as they had some kind of training or so, which was not very pleasant as you basically drive a few metres from their fence. The climb to the top is steep with many stairs, but nothing one couldn’t do. There is a viewing platform on the top. The entry fee is 10 TL (€0,6). Open from 9am to 6:30pm from April to October and till 3:30pm from November to March.
Lapta walk
This easy walk is 3.5 km one way. From the beginning, we thought it was quite basic, but after a few minutes of walking, the scenery gets more and more enjoyable. On one side, there are mountains. On the other, sea and rock formations. Chilled and easy walk. Make sure you come before sunset, as the sunset watching from here is top-notch. Also, locals come here to enjoy the atmosphere.
Karmi village
This off the beaten path village is worth a visit. To reach it, you need to drive the hilly road, but it’s like a fairytale once you get there. Colourful doors and a church dominate the area. There might be more cats than inhabitants.
Bellapais Abbey
Maybe it is a subjective opinion, but this place is overly touristic. We didn’t have a good feeling about this place as it seemed a lot like just a money factory. The church is beautiful, though but a bit ruined by the atmosphere. Many buses with day-trippers come here, and unfortunately, everything is overpriced. Entry 15 TL (€0,9), parking 5 TL (€0,3). Open from 9am to 6pm from June to September and till 4pm from October to May.
Where to stay in Kyrenia
Budget I New Kyrenia Hostel – perfect budget option and backpacker hotspot. Every room has its own balcony, and there is also a terrace with a beautiful view.
Mid-range I Lord’s Residence Boutique Hotel – a cool place located in the city centre. Breakfast is included. Some rooms have a sea view.
Luxury I Kyrenia Palace Boutique Hotel – Luxury rooms in the heart of Kyrenia. The rooms are decorated in an old-style that makes you feel like living in a castle. Breakfast is included.
WHERE TO GO NEXT
If you are wondering where to go after TRNC, check out the following posts
How to travel to Lebanon & 2 weeks itinerary
It’s time to plan your trip!
Find our travel resources below that help you plan your next trip. Good luck and safe travels.
Book your flight
Skyscanner is our favourite tool for searching for the cheapest flights and flight combinations. Multi-city or Explore Everywhere helps us to find real bargains.
Rent a car
The best platform to rent a car and compare the prices for your next road trip anywhere in the world is Discovercars.com. The booking process is hassle-free.
Find your acommodation
On Booking.com we always find the best deals for accommodation. Another great option for cheap accommodation is Hostelworld.
Travel insurance
We always recommend IATI Travel Insurance which offers excellent plans. As a reader of Broken Navigation, get an exclusive 5% discount.
For Europeans Truetraveller offers perfect travel insurance for the best price.
Explore more with Tours
Some places are better off explored with a knowledgeable guide. Or, if you simply want to save time and hassle, we recommend GetYourGuide. Another great option that also has an amazing range of activities is Viator.
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