If you, like us, have a passion for unusual destinations, you probably wonder why are we writing about the Republic of Cyprus? Well, we believe every country can be travelled in a style close to your heart, and since we love off the beaten path travel adventures, we want to show you how to travel Cyprus exactly in this way. In this article, we tell you how to get seriously off the beaten path in Cyprus, how to get to places, what to expect and where are the most beautiful wild beaches. In addition, we also added our experience of camping, as we slept in a tent. Let’s get into it.
The Republic of Cyprus is a member of the European Union. The east and south coasts are extremely overdeveloped, and consumerism is screaming at you from all sides. Finding some places that are not discovered yet is a challenging task. We came to this island mostly to explore the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus and to bike around the ghost town of Varosha; therefore, since we already were on the island, having the next flight from Larnaca in south Cyprus, we thought why not use a few days to dig some quirky places. How little did we know this would be yet another amazing adventure.
Let’s be clear. This guide is about the west part of Cyprus and the Akamas peninsula, where the only remaining piece of wilderness is waiting to be discovered as well as the traditional old fashioned villages, where the time stopped and not much changed over the last years. If you want to see Cyprus how it used to look back in time, this is a travel guide for you.
BASIC INFORMATION
- Currency: Euro
- Language: Greek
- Religious: Orthodox Christians
- Visa: Generally, you don’t need a visa to go to Cyprus
COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS
As of 1 June 2022, Cyprus lifted all its Covid 19 restrictions to enter the country.
There are many places to do rapid antigen test for Covid 19 all-around Larnaca and big cities, in case you need one. You will frequently see many signs with Covid 19 test offers. We did ours right next to the Blazer Residence, where we stayed. It costs €5, and the results are ready within 15 minutes, with a QR code, and you can download it from their website.
QUICK OVERVIEW
Villages on the west coast – Tylliria, Pomos and Kato Pyrgos are charming villages where you will feel like back in the times. The real life of Cypriots can be seen here. It is no wonder why it is a popular summer vacation spot for Cypriots trying to escape commercialism.
Western Troödos – busy from the east and south side but unbelievably quiet west. A beautiful mountain road takes you through the passages with fantastic views, and you also get a chance to stay at a mountain campsite.
Akamas Peninsula – Cypruse’s last remaining wilderness is accessible only by 4WD car, buggy car or foot.
HOW TO GET TO CYPRUS
If you come to explore just the west part of the Republic of Cyprus, the best is to fly to Paphos, which is one hour drive from Polis, the starting point of this off the beaten path travel guide.
Since we first went to Northern Cyprus (TRNC), we flew to Larnaca as it was the perfect starting point.
Wizz Air has some insanely good deals to go to Larnaca and Paphos. The flights are around 15€ one way. We personally took a flight from Katowice, Poland.
After this trip, we continued our travel to Lebanon, and it makes sense to go from Larnaca, as you have flights to Beirut from there every day.
Read more: How to travel to Lebanon & 2 weeks itinerary
HOW TO TRAVEL AROUND CYPRUS
You will need to rent a car for this trip as there is no other way to get to these places. You might take a bus from Paphos that reach Polis, but that’s probably it. Also, the most beautiful places are outside the villages.
WHERE TO RENT A CAR
We rented a car in Larnaca after coming back from North Cyprus. There are many car rental companies around the town, and you can also book in advance through Discovercars.com. We rented a small Nissan, and it was enough even for mountain roads. Make sure you pay for extra insurance as, especially on the mountain roads, there are many falling rocks. We paid €100 for five days, including insurance which is an amazing off-season price.
Get your free quote with Discovercars.com
FOR HOW MANY DAYS TO GO
We rented a car for five days. If you are wondering how many days you need a car for, we think five days are enough if you just want to see the west part of Cyprus, do some hikes, drive through the roads of Western Troödos and explore Akamas Peninsula.
DRIVING IN CYPRUS
In both North and South Cyprus, they drive on the left side of the road. If you have never done that before, don’t worry, it is intuitive, and everything is well signposted. Most roads are one way only which makes it much more manageable. Pay attention to speed radars, as there are many of them on the way from Larnaca to Polis.
There are many petrol stations along the way, but once you go to Kato Pyrgos and Western Troödos, you want to have your tank full before you go. There is no petrol station in the mountains and to reach Kato Pyrgos you drive over the hill, so better be prepared.
GET A SIM CARD
Sim cards in Cyprus are not amongst the cheapest ones, that’s for sure. Anyway, it is better to have one if you do a road-tripping. Three GB of data and two euros worth of phone calls cost €17 with Cyta Mobile.
You can get a sim card in every bigger city – Larnaka, Paphos, Polis, Pomos. We personally got ours in Pomos.
FOOD & DRINKS
We stocked up the car with food and water right after renting a car in Larnaca. Since we knew we would be camping, we bought many canned food, halloumi and pita – so delicious in Cyprus. Also, bring water, we carried a good 40L with us, so we didn’t have to worry about shopping too much when the trip is only five days.
In the west, there is a big supermarket in Polis. Smaller stores are on the way to Kato Pyrgos, and they usually have a good selection of food and drinks.
Most restaurants are again in Polis, but you find some open places in Kato Pyrgos and Pomos. We didn’t find any shop in Troödos mountain except one that sells only chips and cookies. We believe it is much busier in summer as we saw closed restaurants, but again we visited outside of the main season.
WHEN TO GO
We visited Cyprus in March 2022, and the weather was amazing. We had a pleasant 18-22°C during the day and around 8°C during the night in the west.
Cyprus is all year round destination if you come for an adventure. Winter has pleasant temperatures but don’t expect the sea to be warm, it is a rather cold experience, but we enjoyed that. On the other hand, summer can get extremely hot, so the escape to the mountains makes sense.
The best time to go is March to June and September to November. But again, we think any time of the year must be excellent.
INSURANCE
Make sure to have proper insurance, especially when you drive a car. We recommend the services of IATI Insurance, which has perfect coverage and customer service. Readers of Broken Navigation get an exclusive 5% discount.
Get your 5% discount with IATI Insurance here.
GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH IN CYPRUS & TOP PLACES
Please don’t expect this guide to be packed with top places to see since there are almost none; it is rather about getting off the beaten path and soaking up the atmosphere of traditional villages and mountains.
POLIS
The starting point of this western adventure. Polis is a small town, although it is still the biggest one on this itinerary. There is not much to do in the sense of attractions, except for the Agios Andronikos church from the 16th century, which used to be the centre of local Turkish Cypriots.
There are sand beaches along the coast, in the city centre as well. We liked the spot by the restaurant La Plage. Since we were camping at the nearest campsite, we really appreciate the facilities here as there are toilets, showers, changing rooms and benches all free to use, so we were coming here to enjoy the breakfast on the beach. Amazing place.
You can take a walk on the promenade. There are no resorts, so this is a pleasant, quiet walk through nature even though you are in the city centre. At the end of the walk, roughly 1 km, there is a campsite that we slept in.
Polis is a perfect place to refill food and fuel. You will come back to Polis again, as the road to Kato Pyrgos is only one, with no possibility of doing a loop.
WHERE TO STAY IN POLIS
As mentioned, we stayed at the campsite for free. In March, the camp was closed, but after talking with locals living there, they let us stay anyway, without a charge. The campsite seems like nobody taking care of it for years, don’t expect clean bathrooms, but the water is running, and there are many places to pitch a tent, so what does one need more? It is in the shade of the trees with a beach 100 m away. You find the campsite here: (35.0428648, 32.4191385).
If you are not camping, there are hotels in Polis as well:
Budget I Nicos & Olympia Apartments – the best budget option in Polis, these family-run apartments offer a pool, clean rooms with a balcony, and some rooms have a kitchen. It is located in the centre, roughly 1 km from the beach.
Mid-Range I Polis Herb Garden – another great option if you don’t want to stay in busy resorts. These clean apartments have a balcony, kitchen and a great location in the city centre within walking distance from the beach.
Luxury I Polis 1907 – traditional and stylish Cypriots house, beautiful rooms and the breakfast included. The location is perfect – in the city centre but within walking distance from the beach.
POMOS
The coastal road leads from Polis to Pomos offering amazing views between the wild beaches and green hills. This area is wild, and the beaches are beautiful yet abandoned. Every now and then, you see summer houses, but other than that, be prepared for a quiet time in nature.
It takes only 17 km to reach Pomos, a cute little village of almost 600 inhabitants. Except for nature, the sea, mountains and a forest, the village has a pretty little harbour and a beautiful path that leads to the neighbouring village Nea Dimmata.
Where to stay in Pomos
There are not many options for where to sleep, except for a few costly villas. We just visited Pomos on our way from Polis to Kato Pyrgos, where we spent a night at the campsite.
Anyway, if it’s within your budget, spending a night in Pomos will be an unforgettable experience. We can imagine how great the sunset over the harbour must be.
Luxury I Pomos Harbourview Villa – a luxurious villa with a garden and pool, restaurant and a pleasant garden. Breakfast included.
Mid-Range I Astrofegia Apartments Near The Sea – this is the only Mid-Range option outside of Polis, and it looks stunning; if we didn’t camp, we would stay here. It is located halfway between Polis and Pomos in a tiny village Agia Marina, 50 metres from a sand beach. This place is made for relaxation.
KATO PYRGOS
Kato Pyrgos is our favourite place in Cyprus, located as far as it can get in Cyprus. On one side UN patrolled Green Line, that after the war in 1974, separates Cyprus from North Cyprus; on another side, the Turkish occupied area. It is nestled between the ocean and the Troödos mountains. As you can read, it is a fascinating place, and to get there, you need to drive through the mountain passage as the area occupied by Turks is forbidden to enter. Going through this mountain passage, you will be rewarded with amazing views and beautiful mountain scenery, but it also goes through the old and destroyed villages.
Once you get to Kato Pyrgos, you see how Cyprus looked like back in the time, before all the development and tourism. There is a main road lined with restaurants and traditional tea houses where older men sit and just chill, the time doesn’t change a lot here, and we just fell in love with this place. You can buy some food in a local store, as well as beers and the biggest attraction is a newly renovated Greek Church. There is a very traditional restaurant that is not on maps, locals gather there, and it is a perfect place to experience the authentic atmosphere of Kato Pyrgos. It is 100 metres from the supermarket on the corner, where the Greek Church is. You can’t miss this white building with blue doors and windows and a bustling outside seating area full of local gentlemen.
Where to stay in Kato Pyrgos
We slept in the only campsite in Kato Pyrgos that is located on the beach, yet there were many trees to escape the summer sun. This campsite is free. You find here toilets, kitchen (that was closed off-season), many benches and tables and you can also make a fire. The sunset here is the top experience while walking on the wild beach. You find it here: (35.1847712, 32.6883458).
Mid-Range I EJ Pyrgos Bay Hotel – the biggest hotel in the area and the cheapest one. Three minutes walk from the beach, there is a garden, and the beach is private. Wifi works well, and the rooms are clean.
Mid-Range I Tylos Beach Hotel – Family run hotel. Every room has a balcony with either a sea or mountain view. Buffet breakfast is served.
Mid-Range I Twins Apartments – If you want privacy, these apartments are the best choice in the area. Each apartment has its kitchen and a balcony.
WESTERN TROÖDOS
It’s time to go to the mountains. We drove back the same mountain passage towards Pomos until we reached the crossroad on the top, where we turned left towards Kykkos Monastery. It is a point where the commercial road from east and south meets the quiet western road. We spent a whole day exploring the mountain roads, stopping at many viewpoints along the way until we reached the Kykkos monastery.
This monastery from the 11th century is the best known in Cyprus, and monks still inhabit it. It has a quirky vibe, considering it is located high in the mountains where there are no villages around. The paintings and mosaic pictures are spectacular. Another place to visit on the western side is Stavros Tis Psokas; this Tyllirian forest is a beautiful place to sit down and have some snacks and a little hike to the reserve that is home to the last mouflon on the island. It is roughly one km walk from the car park. You find here a campsite where we wanted to sleep, but it was closed, the gate was locked, so there was no chance to pitch a tent. Only a small shop was open, selling just chips and some cookies. It is more alive if you travel in the main season, the campsite offers a perfect escape from the summer heat.
After visiting the monastery, we made our way back to Kato Pyrgos campsite, where we spent a night.
This trip took us a whole day, so make sure you leave early in the morning. Even though there are not so many attractions, you will find many viewpoints, small abandoned settlements and cute houses, where you might want to stop and take photos or just relax.
Where to stay in Troödos Mountains
There is no accommodation on the western side of the mountains. You will either have to drive toward the south or come back to Kato Pyrgos as we did. You can also go all the way to Polis to spend a night.
Mid-Range I Two Flowers Hotel – one of the cheapest options, this stone hotel has a mesmerising view from the terrace over the mountain scenery. You can spend an evening by a fireplace. It is located half an hour drive (18km) from Kykkos Monastery. Breakfast is included.
Mid-Range I Moutoullas Mountain Views – another traditional Cyoriots house, again with an amazing view. These apartments have their own kitchen, balcony and fireplace.
AKAMAS PENINSULA
After another night in Kato Pyrgos, we enjoyed a slow morning and walked along the abandoned beach; then, we made our way back to Polis. From there, it is a perfect starting point to explore the Akamas peninsula. Check the best things you can do here:
Aphrodite trail
The best hike in Akamas peninsula to see the most of Akamas flora together with excellent views of the area. It is a 7.5 km long hike that starts at the Baths of Aphrodite. It takes roughly 4 hours if you don’t rush.
You can also walk the Adonis trail, which starts at the same place, but there are no spectacular views.
Akamas Peninsula
The only way to explore this peninsula is by quad bike, 4WD or foot. It is the last remaining wilderness in Cyprus, and you can see the whole peninsula from the top if you hike the Aphrodite trail. There are no roads, just a dirt track leading its way around.
Where to stay in Akamas Peninsula
The best is to spend a night in Polis, as it is the closest city. We slept again at the Polis campsite.
WHAT TO SEE ON THE WAY BACK TO LARNACA
It’s time to drive back from Polis to Larnaka to catch the flight. If you have a whole day, as we did, you can see plenty of things along the way. Top places to see:
Edro III shipwreck
80 m long shipwreck right on the rocky beach is a picturesque spot. White stones and crystal clear water attracts many visitors to take a dip on hot days. The ship ran aground in a storm in 2011.
Petra Tou Romiou (Aphrodite rock)
This busy spot is very famous, and it can get very crowded. To be honest, we found it a bit overrated as it is technically, well, just rock. What makes it attractive is the story behind it. The myth says that Aphrodite, the Goddess of love, emerged from the sea here. Anyway, it is a good spot to break a journey, rather than just drive all day to Larnaca.
Governor’s Beach (camp)
The last night before going to Larnaca, we slept at the campsite Governors Beach, 30km south of Lemesos, and we loved it. Again, this campsite is a rather place where locals live in tiny houses, but there is a small grass area where you can pitch a tent. It is on the top of a white chalk cliff so you can go to beautiful spots to have a picnic with a view over the sea. White picturesque rocks with the black sand beach make this place even more special.
WHAT TO DO IN LARNACA
Larnaca is a pretty busy city and typical holiday destination. The coastal promenade, known as Finikoudes, is lined up with restaurants, cafes, bars and souvenirs shops, and there are plenty of hotels all around. We stayed for a couple of days to get some work done; therefore, we learned that Larnaka is mostly busy around the promenade; however, if you go a bit inland, you get a chance to see Larnaca from a different perspective, real, quiet and authentic. We had been invited for coffee by Jelena, a lovely lady from Armenia who has lived in Cyprus for many years; it was terrific to listen about life in Cyprus.
Top things to do
Larnaca Fort
Follow the coastal promenade until you reach Larnaka Fort, separating the Finikoudes from the old Turkish Quarter. Take time to explore this part, as it is exactly like walking through the streets of Lefkosa in North Cyprus.
Read more: How to visit Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus from Cyprus
Grand Mosque
Not far from the Turkish Quarter, you find a small mosque that primarily serves for Muslims from North Africa who live in Cyprus. There are clothes to borrow for the woman so they can visit.
Finikoudes beach
Let’s be honest, the beach in Larnaca is far from spectacular, but it is an excellent place to unwind and just have a swim along its long coast. There are showers and changing rooms available. Come early in the morning before the promenade fills up with people, and the restaurants are still closed until roughly 9am.
WHERE TO STAY IN LARNACA
Budget I Le Mat Hostel – the most popular place among backpackers. Located in the city centre, a short walk from the beach. Stylish rooms, wifi, and equipped kitchen available.
Mid-Range I Blazer Residence – we stayed here, and if we ever come back, we gladly return. These small apartments have a balcony, kitchen, and great wifi and are perfect if you need privacy as each unit has its entrance. The location could not be better, just a 3-minute walk to the beach and you are right in the city centre. The price is around €30.
Luxury I Best Western Plus Larco Hotel – if you don’t want to worry about a thing, this is an option for you. Pool, coffee machine in the room, breakfast included, balcony with a view. It sounds like a holiday relaxation.
HOW TO GET TO THE AIRPORT IN LARNACA
Bus number 425 frequently goes from Larnaca Center (Finikoudes bus stop) to Larnaca Airport, and it costs €2. For the bus schedule, download their PameApp. The airport is only 7 km away from the city centre.
So what do you think? Will you add west Cyprus to your travel plans? Let us know in the comments bellow.
EXPLORE MORE – INTERESTING PLACES
Explore ship cemetery in Uzbekistan
Hike to Kolsai lakes in Kazakhstan
Visit Maldives for $39 per day including flight!
How to travel to Syria & Is it safe?
It’s time to plan your trip!
Find our travel resources below that help you plan your next trip. Good luck and safe travels.
Book your flight
Skyscanner is our favourite tool for searching for the cheapest flights and flight combinations. Multi-city or Explore Everywhere helps us to find real bargains.
Rent a car
The best platform to rent a car and compare the prices for your next road trip anywhere in the world is Discovercars.com. The booking process is hassle-free.
Find your acommodation
On Booking.com we always find the best deals for accommodation. Another great option for cheap accommodation is Hostelworld.
Travel insurance
We always recommend IATI Travel Insurance which offers excellent plans. As a reader of Broken Navigation, get an exclusive 5% discount.
For Europeans Truetraveller offers perfect travel insurance for the best price.
Explore more with Tours
Some places are better off explored with a knowledgeable guide. Or, if you simply want to save time and hassle, we recommend GetYourGuide. Another great option that also has an amazing range of activities is Viator.
protect yourself online by VPN
We always use NordVPN everywhere we travel for safe internet browsing and access to specific sites that might be blocked.
Disclosure: We recommend only companies we personally use. If you book services through any of the affiliate links in our posts, it earns us a small commission at no extra cost to you.
