Read our ultimate travel guide to off-the-beaten-path Siwa Oasis in Egypt, in the desert near the Libyan border. How to get to this paradise-like palm oasis from Cairo, how many days you need and how to find the picturesque salt lakes, crystal clear springs and other top places to visit, including where to stay and eat. This and more you will find in our Siwa travel guide.
We spent one month in Egypt, and visiting Siwa was, for sure, our best adventure. Siwa is exactly what we were looking for. A quirky place far away from crowds, surrounded by olive and palm trees, authentic life and a mud-brick old town. Siwa is paradise, and we want to show you how to make the most of your trip. Below, we also included our three-day detailed itinerary for Siwa.
WHY GO to siwa
Siwa is the real off-the-beaten-path natural paradise in Egypt. It was, without doubt, our favourite place we visited in Egypt. The nature is stunning, the whole city has a slow vibe, and even though the tourism in the area has grown, it is still very authentic. You see locals riding donkey carts in the street, Siwan women covered from head to toe, only their eyes peaking out, which was very interesting to see; life is traditional, conservative and slow. Even though the Siwa is relatively small, there are many interesting places to visit, such as temples, palm oases, many small sacred hills to climb for a view, and hundreds of picturesque salt lakes.
The whole oasis was isolated until the late 1980s when the road was built from Marsah Matrouh. That’s why the Siwans still keep their strong culture and dialect that is so different from the rest of Egypt. They speak Siwi, which is the local Berber language. Even though Siwa is far from the way, and it is a small town, yet, it offers so many attractions to visit that attract people to spend more days just chilling and enjoying the culture that stays unchanged for centuries.
TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR EGYPT
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HOW TO GET TO SIWA
From Cairo to Siwa by bus
It’s pretty easy to get to Siwa from Cairo, as only one bus company currently operates between Cairo and Siwa. It’s called the West-Mid Delta Bus, and they go from Cairo to Siwa daily at 10:30pm. You can buy a ticket at their stand at the roundabout from where also other bus companies like Go-Bus depart – this is the exact location. The tickets cost 275 EGP ($9), and the ride takes 10-12 hours, depending on checkpoints and traffic.
What to expect? If you took the Go-Bus somewhere in Egypt, expect nothing like that; the buses of West-Mid Delta are old and uncomfortable. On our way back from Siwa to Cairo, our seats were broken, and the seating part was moving for whole 11 hours. It was, for sure, an adventure. There are 3-4 stops for the toilet and to buy snacks.
- Tip: When we arrived at Siwa and took our backpacks from the bus storage, it was all covered in dust and sand. Since the ride goes through the desert, cover your bags.
By private vehicle from Cairo
If you want to save time and travel to Siwa hassle-free and, most importantly, comfortably, you can go by private vehicle with a driver and guide from Cairo.
Not only do you visit all the places we mention in this travel blog, but you also experience the desert safari and three meals per day are included in your trip. It is a good deal with amazing reviews, so if you want to visit Siwa the this way, check the details of this trip below.
from siwa to cairo
To return to Cairo from Siwa, buy your ticket at this location in Siwa. During our visit, they closed the stall with bus tickets between 1-4pm. Therefore, it is good to buy your tickets in the morning to make sure there is space. The bus was full both ways. The bus to Cairo leaves at 7:30pm. You can also take 9pm bus to Alexandria.
Read more: Top things to do in Cairo in 48 hours & detailed itinerary. (Coming soon)
Checkpoints
On the way to Siwa, everything was smooth; all the checkpoints we went through, we didn’t even have to show ID or get out of the bus for bag checking. On the way back from Siwa to Cairo, we showed our ID multiple times to the army guy who came inside the bus to do the ID check. Egyptian citizens had to leave the bus to get their luggage checked. Those checkpoints are mostly between Marsha Matrouh and Siwa due to the close proximity of the Libyan border.
HOW TO GET AROUND SIWA
The centre of Siwa is small and complex, and you can walk to a few sights, such as the Shali fortress and the Mountain of the Dead. The rest of the places are within a 5 km radius, and the salt lakes are roughly 12 km away, so you’ll need to organise transport. The options are following:
Tuk Tuk
The most popular way of transportation for sightseeing around Siwa is to rent a tuk tuk with a driver, who takes you to all the places mentioned below. Everyone knows where to take you, so you don’t have to worry about organising the itinerary as all the sights are covered in great order. You also get to enjoy swimming in springs or salt lakes and watching the sunset at Fatnas Island. We paid 450 EGP ($14.5) for a whole day (10am – 6pm), but you can try to bring it lower. The advantage of hiring the tuk-tuk driver is that he knows exactly where to take you to the beautiful salt lakes.
Plenty of tuk tuk drivers are all around the centre of Siwa; they stop you on the street to offer their tours, or every hotel has a contact for tuk tuk drivers, so they can help you organise that, but they usually charge 500 EGP. In the same way, you can also organise the desert trip in a 4WD car, which charges 700 EGP per person.
Feel free to contact our driver, Abdul, on What’s App (+201017796517). He ensured we had enough time on each sight and could organise everything to our liking.
Bicycle
If you feel like it, you can rent a bicycle to explore all the sights. You can rent a bicycle in a cafe near the entrance to the Shali fortress or ask in your hotel. The terrain is flat. However, we haven’t seen anyone cycling around, and we found it too challenging to visit everything in one day on a bicycle.
IS SIWA SAFE?
Safety in Siwa improved drastically in recent years since it is gaining more and more popularity from foreign travellers. Siwa Oasis is a relaxed place, yet it lies just a few km away from Libyan borders, and the area is known for Libyan smugglers crossing the desert; that’s why travelling through the desert road from Bahariya is not recommended. There are frequent checkpoints once you get closer to Siwa; we described those in the checkpoint section.
Cross overland border from Egypt to Israel: How to cross the Taba border from Egypt to Israel with troubled stamps in passport.
TOP THINGS TO SEE IN SIWA
Siwa has a very long history with many ancient sights you can still admire today. Just imagine in 2007, they found a human footprint that is probably around 3 million years old. The best thing you can do is rent a bicycle or Tuk Tuk with a driver to take you to all those places in one day. You don’t need to organise anything in advance as it is very easy to arrange once you arrive. Not only that Siwa is full of interesting places, but the oasis itself is the most beautiful place we have seen in Egypt. There are more than 300,000 palm trees, just imagine.
SHALI FORTRESS
This 13th-century mud-brick fortress is located right in the heart of Siwa, with multiple accommodation options inside the fortress. Most places have rooftops, which guarantee magnificent views. We recommend staying in Nanshal Siwa, which has one of the highest terraces with chairs to relax on and just watch. The sunset from here is amazing, and you’re just a few metres from the Old Mosque with a beautiful minaret.
MOUNTAIN OF THE DEAD
Gebel Al Mawta, known as the Mountain of the Dead, lies only 1 km from the city centre. We actually walked there after visiting the Shali Fortress. This small hill is known for its tombs dating back to the 26th dynasty. Some of them are beautifully painted inside. The entry fee is 40 EGP ($1.3), and the tombs are locked, so after you get your ticket, the guy will go with you and open the tomb so you can go in and have a look. There is also a beautiful view over the oasis from the top of the mountain. Opening times are 9am to 5pm.
TEMPLE OF THE ORACLE
The oldest monument in the oasis is believed to be where Alexander the Great was declared the son of Amun. You have a nice view over the oasis from the top of this beautiful temple. The entry fee is 30 EGP ($1).
TEMPLE OF UMM UBAYD
Small ruined temple on the side of the road, very close to the Temple of the Oracle. Even though it is a quick stop, it is worth it as on one of the fallen walls, you can admire still visible inscriptions.
DAKROUR MOUNTAIN
We had a blast hiking to the top of Dakrour Mountain. A beautiful minaret at the foot of the mountain and abandoned houses serve as a shelter when the festival takes place here. You wouldn’t expect to find fossils of shells. It takes only around 15 minutes to get to the top, and is an easy hike.
JUMP IN THE SALT LAKES
You might be disappointed to find out that those salt lakes are actually salt mining fields rather than natural ones. However, it doesn’t change the fact how picturesque this place is. There are tens of beautiful turquoise-blue salt pools to choose from, and here, it will depend on your guide to which one he will take you. We took a dip in many of them, from the smallest ones that are just 1 meter wide to salt lakes tens of meters wide. It is a very similar experience to visiting the Dead Sea in Jordan, and you are basically floating on the surface; it is impossible to swim, you just float around in very salty water. Amazing experience.
Once you get out of the very salty water, obviously, there are no facilities to change or shower. Bring extra water bottles to wash off the salt; otherwise, you will continue your day covered in salt. Our driver took us straight from Salt Lakes to Cleopatra Springs, where we could shower. But you still need to put on some clothes for the ride.
The exact location of the pools in the photos below is on this link.
CLEOPATRA’S SPRING
This large stone pool is literally surrounded by restaurants. So, if you decide to take a dip, be prepared to have an audience. The water is crystal clear and slightly warm. You can use the changing room inside one of the restaurants. Another popular hot spring to visit is the Almaza Hot Spring.
FATNAS ISLAND
You will likely end your day by Siwa Lake on Fatnas Island. Here, you can sit in the lakeshore cafe, order tea and watch the sunset. Chairs and floor seating with comfy pillows or hammocks are available. It is a stunning place to end your day full of exploring.
Another great thing to do in Siwa is wander around the Siwa centre or take a Safari into the desert.
ATM, INTERNET, MONEY
Bring enough cash when going to Siwa because it’s remote, and only one ATM is in the city. In case this ATM doesn’t work, you might be in trouble. Cash is the king everywhere you go in Siwa. Internet in hotels wasn’t the best, but it was possible to use it.
VPN for egypt
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Check NordVPN’s current offers here.
WHEN TO VISIT SIWA
Avoid summer months because the heat is unbearable. The most pleasant temperatures in Siwa are between October and March. However, the climate is good even in winter. We visited Siwa in December/January, and it was just perfect. It was warm during the day and a bit chilly during the night, so we had to wear a down jacket to sit outside after sunset. But it was still pleasant.
HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED FOR SIWA
We spent three days and two nights in Siwa and wished we stayed one day more because of how relaxed it is to be in Siwa. We would take an extra day to stroll more around the centre and chill on our hotel Nanshal Siwas patio. The ride from Cairo is quite long; it is overnight, so you arrive early in the morning and are quite tired; count on that when planning your trip.
THREE DAYS ITINERARY FOR SIWA
I suppose you took the night bus from Cairo, so you’ll arrive in Siwa around 9-10am. Head to your hotel to check-in. Most places will check you in free of charge if you arrive early and they have space.
DAY 1
After you arrive to Siwa and check into your hotel head to Abdu’s restaurant for breakfast. Find a tuk tuk driver and organise the next day tuk tuk tour.
Explore the Shali fortress. Take it easy and explore the streets in the centre of Siwa.
Hike to the Mountain of the Dead and explore the tombs. This mountain can also be visited on the following day by tuk tuk, however we recommend you to do this mountain by yourself on day 1, it saves you time for the next day, and you can spend more time in other places. Head back to the centre and hike the mountain opposite the Shali Fortress to watch the sunset. Or, if you stay in Nanshal Siwa, watch the epic sunset from their terrace. Go for dinner to one of local restaurants or try camel meat in Ola Restaurant.
DAY 2
Your Tuk Tuk tour starts after breakfast. Visit the Temple of the Oracle and Temple of Amun, hike Darker Mountain, float in the salt lakes, dip in Cleopatra’s spring, you can visit the Shali Fortress, and head to Fatnas island for sunset. End the day in Almaza hot springs. Back to the hotel and head for dinner.
If you are in a time pressure, you can manage to catch the bus at 7:30pm back to Cairo. However, we recommend you stay one more night, enjoy the Siwa atmosphere, and wander the streets of Siwa the next day before taking the bus back to Cairo.
DAY 3
Wander around Siwa. Watch how they make bread in various bakeries, have a coffee at Ola restaurant, and chill on the terrace of Nanshal Siwa hotel. Go by the 7:30pm bus to Cairo or the 9pm bus to Alexandria.
WHERE TO EAT
Siwa Oasis is bustling with thousands of palm trees, olive trees, and fruit orchards. Make sure you try especially the olives and dates, as those are very fresh and tasty. Vegetarian food is very typical as Siwans don’t eat that much meat. You’ll find traditional local restaurants, where you just sit down on the floor and use your hands to eat food.
Abdu’s restaurant I this restaurant is the longest-operating in Siwa. It is the most popular place in town where both locals and travellers come. We went there twice and tried their falafel and vegetable couscous, which was pretty good.
Ola Restaurant I tourist restaurant in a lovely oasis; people come here to try camel meat.
Local restaurants I there are some local restaurants whose names are impossible to translate as it is in a local dialect. Just stroll around the old town.
WHERE TO STAY IN SIWA
Be careful when choosing accommodation because paying a little extra bucks for a better place here pays off. You can either stay near the centre, which we did, to have the view over the Shali fortress, which was perfect. Or you can stay near the palm oasis, in the nature. This way, you have to count on you will need a tuk-tuk ride anytime you go for food or back to the centre. Those usually charge 20-30 EGP per ride.
The centre of Siwa
Budget I Agpen Teswa – the most popular accommodation close to the centre of Siwa for an unbeatable price. It is just a short walk from the centre; wifi works well.
Mid-Range I Nanshal Siwa – we stayed here and can say it was the best accommodation in Egypt we stayed in. The breakfast is absolutely delicious. Their terrace is the best in and around Shali Fortress, with amazing views over the fortress and surrounding mountains. Beautifully decorated traditional Siwan house located inside the Fortress, in front of the beautiful minaret. Price is amazing, too, for what you get, and the owners are the most helpful people you can imagine. You won’t regret staying here.
Near the oasis
Mid-Range I Olive Garden House Siwa – a beautiful place surrounded by palm trees. Guests enjoy delicious food, warm hospitality and the relaxed vibe of this place. It was our original pick, but then we decided to stay inside the Shali fortress area.
Where to go next
PALESTINE / ISRAEL
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Lebanon
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The best things to do in Beirut, Lebanon
Is it safe to travel to Lebanon? Our experience
Syria
How to travel to Syria & Is it safe to visit?
Cyprus
How to travel to the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus
Travel off the beaten path in Cyprus
Visit Varosha: The ghost town – Ultimate travel guide
SAVE IT!
It’s time to plan your trip!
Find our travel resources below that help you plan your next trip. Good luck and safe travels.
Book your flight
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Rent a car
The best platform to rent a car and compare the prices for your next road trip anywhere in the world is Discovercars.com. The booking process is hassle-free.
Find your acommodation
On Booking.com we always find the best deals for accommodation. Another great option for cheap accommodation is Hostelworld.
Travel insurance
We always recommend IATI Travel Insurance which offers excellent plans. As a reader of Broken Navigation, get an exclusive 5% discount.
For Europeans Truetraveller offers perfect travel insurance for the best price.
Explore more with Tours
Some places are better off explored with a knowledgeable guide. Or, if you simply want to save time and hassle, we recommend GetYourGuide. Another great option that also has an amazing range of activities is Viator.
protect yourself online by VPN
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