This travel guide contains the best things you can do in the capital of Lebanon, Beirut. What are the top places to see, where to eat, where to stay, and how does the current crisis change the city and in general, we tell you updated information, as many things changed after the Beirut port explosion and with the current economic and political crisis. 

Beirut is a cosmopolitan city where East and West meet. Actually, after our visit, we can say that West prevails. After almost 30 years of civil wars, a deadly port explosion not long ago, and elections, we would say this country suffered enough. Yet, there is so much hope and determination in people, it’s fascinating. When we walked the streets in Gemmayze district, the area that was pretty much all destroyed by the explosion in 2020, we saw a lot of reconstructions, newly renovated stores, smiley people, modern cafes and restaurants. I mean, the city was destroyed and rebuilt seven times! It speaks for itself. 

We had a blast travelling around Lebanon in April 2022, leaving a strong impression on us until today. If you follow our 11-day itinerary for Lebanon, you will soon learn how easy it is to base yourself in Beirut and just make the day trips from there, as the country is relatively small and the transportation is fantastic. 

Essential reading: Detailed travel guide to Lebanon & 11 days itinerary

Know before you go

Money – Lebanese pound, in April 2022 $1 = LBP 23500 on black market. Make sure you bring cash for the whole length of your stay as if you use your bank card, you will pay ten times more, as they calculate it based on the official exchange rate! You can exchange your $ dollars or € euros on Hamra street. 

Language – Despite Arabic being the official Language, many (usually young) people speak great English or French. 

Population – almost 2.5 million, but with a crisis with Syrian and Palestinian refugees, it is tough to say the actual number.

Visa – most nationalities get a 1-month free visa on arrival; however, check the exact info before you go.

Wifi/ internet – well, the internet and wifi are trouble in Beirut and the rest of Lebanon. Even the local data sim card sometimes didn’t work with all the frequent electricity cuts. You can find some cafés with the internet, but the speed is not very impressive.

Simcard – very easy to obtain, especially in Hamra street. Get one from the best providers such as Touch or Alfa. 

Tours – so many tours are worth it in and around Beirut. Find a local guide who can show you around, or check out the best local tours here.

---

Is it safe to visit Beirut? 

I hear this from all sides. Is it safe to visit Beirut? And we were asking the same question. However, after our visit, we can say, yes, it is very safe to visit Beirut and other places in Lebanon. Of course, the country has problems, and you should know which areas you should avoid. But if you use common sense, the country has open arms for you. In Beirut, make sure you avoid the area south of the Camille Chamois Sports Stadium, the suburbs west of the airport hwy, and south of Adnon El Hakim to Abbas El Mousawi rd. 

Read more: Is it safe to travel to Lebanon? Actual information from 2022

---

How to get to Beirut 

The best way to get to Beirut is by flight. Rafic Hariri international airport is a busy transportation hub, and you can find cheap deals. We flew to Beirut from Cyprus after road tripping in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, and the flight took only around half an hour. 

After a few weeks of travelling around Lebanon and Syria, we continued by flying to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan. So as you can see, you can explore many interesting areas around Lebanon. The national airline is MEA, the Middle East Airline, and you can find the best deal at the following link. 

Check the cheap flights to/from Beirut here.

---

How to get from Rafic Hariri International airport to Beirut Center 

Your hotel will probably offer to arrange a taxi waiting for you at the airport for $25. Absolutely overpriced. In the best case, have the app Bolt ready before you come to Beirut. You won’t have a local sim card yet, that’s fine as you can use the airport wifi. However, it is available only for 30 minutes! So make sure you connect once you are ready to call your Bolt driver (Uber works too, but it’s more expensive). We used Bolt on the way back from the city centre to the airport for $3.

If this for some reason won’t work for you, just arrive and find a taxi. You will have to negotiate, but you shouldn’t pay more than $10. We arrived after 10pm, and there were still plenty of taxi drivers around, fighting for any customers. 

---

TOP THINGS TO SEE IN BEIRUT

Even though there are not many specific landmarks, there are still many things you can do. Especially the Beirut district’s characters vary from each other very much. 

Beirut could be easily called an outdoor post-Civil war museum since the bullet holes mark half-destroyed buildings, and some buildings are clearly left untouched and abandoned after the war. Why is that? Lebanese people simply decided to leave it as it is. Either as a reminder of the horrific times or today as a cool, strange way of expressing art. This was actually one of the best parts of walking around, to see those places with our own eyes. 

Pigeon rock

Walk through Hamra street until you reach the gorgeous limestone outcrops known as Pigeon rocks. You can either admire it from the seafront, sit down on one of the benches, or there are cafes on the cliff with an impressive view. Optionally, make your way down the unpaved, rocky path, which takes you to a couple of viewpoints to see the rocks from different angles. The sunset over the ocean is magnificent from here.

Mohammad Al Amin Mosque

Everyone knows this mosque from photos, postcards, and magazines, as it is the most significant landmark in Beirut. Close the Martyrs square, with majestic blue domes, has been open since 2008. Thanks to its 65 m high minarets, you can see the mosque from many places around Beirut. We loved the contrast of religions, as the Mohammad Al Amin Mosque stands next to the Saint George Maronite Cathedral. The religious diversity is so fascinating to see in Lebanon.

Saint George Maronite Cathedral

Built-in 1772, but went through a massive restoration after the Civil war. Obviously, as many other important buildings. The architecture is inspired by the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, and the whole interior is made of marble. This cathedral is right behind Mohammad Al Amin Mosque. 

The Beirut Egg

Very close to Mohammad Al Amin Mosque is the Beirut Egg. Huge concrete building in the shape of the egg. You can see the sides clearly destroyed from the times of the civil war. It was impossible to get very close when we visited, as it is enclosed by a fence. 

The interesting thing is, when you come to Beirut for the first time, you can be in shock as you will see many war-destroyed buildings, bullet holes in house walls or shuttered windows after the port explosion. However, your effort to understand the country’s complicated history will soon pay off. As I once said about Lebanon: ,,You cry twice. Once when you arrive. And once when you are leaving”. Today, it’s safe to say we love Lebanon and can’t wait to go back. 

Graffitis 

The visit to Beirut is not completed without a graffiti hunt. They are everywhere, and some of them hide really powerful messages. Just keep your eyes open. Our favourite graffiti is two pigeons with the ” hope ” sign. It is just a few meters down the Mohammad Al Amin Mosque. 

Martyr’s square 

The great point from where you explore most of the famous signs – the Beirut Egg, Mohammad Al Amin Mosque, Saint George Maronite Cathedral and also interesting graffiti. It is a historical public square between Gemmayze and Beirut’s downtown/government area. A martyr’s monument honouring Lebanese Patriots stands in the middle of the square.

---

Travel Insurance

Many western governments advise against all travel to Lebanon, which makes it harder for us travellers in terms of travel insurance. Not every company will provide coverage of costs in case something unexpected happens. It is crucial you do research what your insurance cover and what not. One of the few companies that provide travel insurance to Lebanon and also Syria, if you plan to visit on the same trip, is IATI Insurance. They also cover expenses regarding Covid 19, and you can comfortably arrange the insurance even if you already travelling. As a reader of our blog, Broken Navigation, you also get an exclusive 5% discount if you purchase your travel insurance using the link below. 

Get your 5% discount with IATI travel insurance here.

---

BEIRUT DISTRICTS IN GLANCE 

Bourj Hammoud

The Armenian district of Bourj Hammoud is more than 100 years old. Many Armenians run to Lebanon after the Turkish genocide, creating this neighbourhood so different from the rest of Beirut. It’s a pretty scenic place with good restaurants, shops and narrow streets. We met a friend who took us to Resto Ghazar restaurant, and the food is absolutely amazing there. 

Gemmayze 

A famous street with hipster and modern cafés and restaurants and our favourite restaurant in Beirut, Le Chef, is here. Gemmayze connects Mar Mikhael with downtown, a bustling area. Bear in mind, there is no street food! But rather modern restaurants. If you want street food and a more authentic experience, head to Hamra street. 

Mar Mikhael 

Same as Gemmayze, the residential and commercial neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael was pretty destroyed by the port explosion in 2020. You find here the liveliest bar and club scene in Beirut, as well as art galleries, bakeries and shops. It’s a great place for evening drinks since Beirut has one of the liveliest party scenes in the Middle East, with beer and alcohol widely available. A cool place to hang out with other people is Tota on Asfahan street. If you walk through Gemmayze, you eventually end up in the Mar Mikhael district; Beirut is pretty much small, so as you can see, just walk around! 

Hamra 

Compared with modern streets in Gemmayze and Mar Michael, Hamra street is more traditional and lively with locals and students. It’s the best place to buy Simcard, exchange money, and have Lebanese street food (falafel, local sweets, shawarma & much more). Hamra is a student and economic centre. Therefore many street foods can be found here. 

Corniche 

Corniche is a seaside promenade that will take you all the way to the famous Pigeon Rock. It is a pleasant walk, especially during the sunset. Many locals come here to have a walk along the ocean.

Downtown 

Newly built part of Beirut. Previously known as Paris of the Middle East. However, it felt pretty empty and plastic to us. Not many people were around the overly luxurious shops. We saw just a few businessmen and almost empty streets. It is worth a visit, but a quick walk through this neighbourhood is more than enough. 

Government area 

Right next to downtown. The army guarded this area, and as of April 2022, it wasn’t possible to visit it further. After the huge protests, it is surrounded by a wired fence and graffiti-painted wall. 

Zaitunay Bay 

Many luxurious hotels, restaurants and cafes line the port and yacht club. It is nice to sit down here and watch the sunset or take an evening walk, like many other Beirutis and expats. The long seaside walk leads all the way to the fence bordering the exploded port. Even though this district is a bit more expensive, we stayed here in Regis Hotel, the only budget place in the area, just 200 m from Zaitunay Bay. 

---

HOW TO GET AROUND BEIRUT

Travelling around Beirut is very easy and convenient. Even though there is no public transport, there are three options.

• Bolt – the number one app. It works the same as Uber but is a bit cheaper. We never waited for a ride longer than 5 minutes. It is safe, affordable and fast. The ride within city costs around LBP 32 000 – LBP 55 000 ($1,2-$2).

• Uber – another convenient option. We personally always used the Bolt, but we know Uber works well too. 

• Taxi – just wave on a taxi by the road, and they will pick you up. The prices are similar to Bolt or Uber, but sometimes it can be tricky to communicate where you want to go if the driver doesn’t speak English.

All the service cars meant for transportation of people have a red plate, or the numbers on the plate are red. Make sure you don’t get in a car with a different plate colour as it means they are not official. It applies to all – Bolt, Uber, Minivans, Buses, taxis…

---

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

There are two main bus stations – Cola and Dawra. After the explosion in the port in 2020, the Charles Helou station doesn’t work anymore.

• From Cola intersection: Saida, Tyre, Baalbek, Zahlé

• From Dawra station: Byblos, Tripoli, Batroun

• A fast option to Tripoli (Byblos, Batroun): go-to station on Martyr’s square from where big Connexion buses running 

• To Bcharré: Estephan Transport company run buses from the little roundabout near Dowra. 

You can easily travel from Beirut to other cities such as Tyre, Saida, Baalbek, and Tripoli, but remember Charles Helou station doesn’t work anymore! Read more about travelling in Lebanon here; it includes a detailed guide on how to get between the cities and useful contacts for bus companies & drivers.

---

RENT A CAR

Yes, it is absolutely possible, and many travellers opt for it. Distances are short, roads are great and renting a car is easily doable even online before you arrive. We met many travellers exploring the country in a rented car, and if you can, go for it! The driving style of locals is a bit crazy, that is true, but soon you will learn how to live in chaos, don’t worry. 

Check the rental car’s availability and prices here.

---

WHERE TO EAT IN BEIRUT 

Every district in Lebanon is full of restaurants and cafés. If you search for hipster or fancy places, head to Gemmayzeh or Mar Michael. For street food, head to Hamra street. Luxury dining is to be found in Zaitunai Bay. 

Le Chef 

The most traditional and popular place to have a quick lunch is Le Chef in Gemmayze. Very authentic restaurant, not luxurious by any means compared to restaurants around it, but with a high charm. The food is delicious, and the price is low. Warning! They have an excellent espresso. 

Falafel Karim Sahyoon

For street food, head to Hamra street. Great place for having falafel sandwich is Falafel Karim Sahyoon. The place is clean, and the sandwiches are very rich and tasty, which brought us here many times during our stay in Beirut. 

---

WHERE TO STAY IN BEIRUT

It might get a bit overwhelming when planning where to base yourself in Beirut, as the districts are so different from each other, and each offers something different. We recommend you choose either Gemayze or Zaituna Bay based on what you’re looking for. If you want to be near restaurants, cafés and pubs where most travellers meet, go for Gemayze. If you want to enjoy the walks on the seafront and port, where it also gets lively, go for Zaituna Bay, like us. 

Stay in Gemmayze

Budget I The Grand Meshmosh Hotel – The Grand Meshmosh Hotel has basic rooms, but the location is awesome, and you won’t find a better place for this price. This place has a restaurant, terrace, garden and shared lounge. You can also rent a whole apartment with a kitchen. 

Mid-Range I Hotel Lost – we are absolutely in love with the design of this place. So cool and stylish. Breakfast is included, and you can expect wifi and clean rooms. It is a short walk from Gemmayze street. 

Luxury I Arthaus Beirut – a cute place with a beautiful design, an outside pool and some room comes with their own terrace. Pretty cool place. You don’t have to worry about electricity cuts here.

Stay in Zaitunay Bay

Budget I Regis Hotel – we stayed here. The price is very good for what you get. The location is in a good, clean neighbourhood close to Zaitunay Bay and 1 km from Hamra street. There was hot water, and our room had a nice balcony. We paid $20. The guys running this hotel are absolutely amazing and, beyond words, helpful. We felt like at home during our whole stay, and if we ever come back, we will stay here again. 

Mid-Range I B Residence – this place is excellent if you want to book a whole studio with a kitchen or simply if you need a bit more comfort than in a cheap room, but at the same time, you don’t want to pay hundreds of dollars for other places. It is a short walk from the bay. You get a great view over the ocean. 

Luxury I Bayview Hotel Beirut – luxurious hotel in Zaitunay Bay. You can rent a whole apartment with a lodge for watching a sunset over the bay or private rooms. The rooftop terrace with bar and restaurant is an absolute bomb with stunning views. Even if you don’t stay here, you can come and have a drink or food. 

If you want to stay on Hamra street, the hotel Embassy is the most popular option. The basic rooms are with balcony, wifi, and guest like the breakfast, which you, however, have to order separately. 

---

Crossing the borders to Syria

Lebanon shares the borders with Syria, and crossing the border between those two countries is pretty easy. From Beirut to Damascus, it is only 113 km, and a whole crossing doesn’t take more than 4 hours. As of May 2022, a special security clearance is required to get a visa. To learn how to get to Syria and travel around, what places are safe to visit and our experience, read our detailed article below. 

Read more: How to travel to Syria in 2022 & Is it safe?

I hope you like our travel guide to Beirut and that you found what you need to plan a smooth trip. Make sure you share any updates with us in the comment sections below, and we hope you will enjoy Beirut as much as we did!

SAVE IT!