Visit & Stay in Refugee Camps in the West Bank, Palestine

Looking for tips on how to stay with locals in refugee camps in occupied West Bank, Palestine? This travel guide explains how you can actually stay in Dheisheh, Aqabat Jabr or Hebron refugee camp, how to get in touch with people, what exactly our experience was, and if you are still unsure about it, we will tell you why you should give it a chance.

We visited three refugee camps in Palestine and spent a couple of nights in two of them. We stayed in the Dheisheh refugee camp in Bethlehem and in the Aqabat Jabr Jericho refugee camp. While in Bethlehem, we also visited the Aida refugee camp, and we also have for you information on how to stay in a camp in Hebron.

WARNING! October 2023: The ongoing war between Israel and the Gaza Strip is currently taking place, and before you travel to the West Bank, it is necessary to seek the most updated information. The conflict does not hit West Bank, but high tension is expected.

Remember to have proper travel insurance when travelling to Palestine. We recommend IATI Insurance and as a reader of Broken Navigation, you get an exclusive 5% discount when purchasing through this link.

Get your 5% discount for travel insurance with IATI here.

IT IS NOT WHAT YOU THINK

If one hears about refugee camps, people immediately imagine crowded fields with tons of tents. People are living in terrible conditions, illness and crime. Please forget all these assumptions because staying in refugee camps in Palestine is a whole different story. Staying in refugee camps was one of the best parts of our 11 days travelling through Palestine.

The building of the refugee camps in Palestine started in 1948, after the Arab-Israeli war, which brought independence to Israel but misery for Palestinians. Around 700,000 Arabs were forced to leave their homes, and so-called refugee camps started to pop up in the West Bank. Since the situation for Palestinians has not gotten any better through the years, actually, even opposite, they made camps their homes.

They built houses, roads, schools, shops and everything you would expect in any city. The only difference is that there are no street names or house numbers. Today, the camps have been on the outskirts of the cities for more than 80 years, and it looks like nothing different than an average city with all the infrastructure.

Many people still talk of the memory of their house; they had to flee due to the Israeli Occupation. Akram, our host in Hebron, said: ,,I can not forget that our family has a house in Jerusalem.” Obviously, there is little to no chance he will ever see the house again.

Staying in refugee camps, you can expect comfort similar to staying in any other hotel in Palestine. You stay in regular houses, with heaters, electricity, internet and all the amenities you can imagine.

Epic view from the rooftop of the Sami Hostel, located in Jericho refugee camp Aqabat Jabr.

The entrance into Dheisheh refugee camp in Bethlehem. Today, it is like any other part of the city. Only house numbers are missing.

IS IT SAFE?

Well, you might frequently hear about shootings and riots happening in refugee camps. Well, that’s true. If there is an issue with the Israeli army, the sure thing is they’ll show up soon, and troubles are expected. But, for you as tourists, coming to a refugee camp is safe. If there are clashes or any issues between Palestine and Israel, it is usually in the early morning or at night. Therefore, it is better to stay home at night; that’s at least what we have been told.

We felt very safe walking around the streets of a refugee camp in Bethlehem (Dheisheh and Aida in Bethlehem and Aqabat Jabr in Jericho). People were very friendly, and we even got a few invitations for coffee.

The situation can change within minutes, so be aware and always search local news and talk to locals; they know the best. We recommend you check our stories on our Instagram Brokennavigation_ where we documented our journey through Palestine in detail.

Palestine territory is divided into the West Bank and Gaza Strip. Gaza Strip is absolutely off-limits to tourists; therefore, all travel guides we wrote about Palestine refer solely to the West Bank territory.

Read more about safety in Palestine: Is it safe to visit Palestine in 2023? Our experience. (Coming soon)

Aida refugee camp is another refugee camp you can visit in Bethlehem. We were invited for a coffee by friendly locals the first minute we stepped into the camp.

WHY SHOULD YOU STAY IN REFUGEE CAMPS IN PALESTINE

Staying in refugee camps is an enriching experience as you get an exclusive chance to talk directly to people whose lives have been impacted for as long as they can remember. When we stayed with Ibrahim in Dheisheh camp in Bethlehem, we asked him how he sees his future? He replied: ,,There is no any. The only reason we keep strong is for the kids.” If this is not the most powerful thing, I don’t know what is. This is something you have to experience in person rather than through the media. You realise that behind every article from troubled regions are innocent people who have to live with consequences caused by someone in power.

We thought we experienced powerful moments when travelling through Syria when seeing all the destroyed cities. But there was hope. The noise of the reconstruction of the wrecked parts was in the air, and people had a positive spirit. I must admit that travelling through Palestine was a roller coaster of emotions, as mostly people don’t see any hope here. The situation is also rapidly changing due to the illegal Israeli settlements that shrink the land in the West Bank even more.

Staying in camps was a big part of our trip, as hearing people’s stories, opinions, and visions is very important. We can only recommend you do the same.

If you want to hear about life in Palestine, staying with locals is a must. We learned lots of stories and what daily life in occupied land looks like.

WHERE TO STAY IN REFUGEE CAMPS IN PALESTINE

We stayed in refugee camps in Bethlehem and Jericho. It is also possible to stay in Hebron. We were in touch with people providing a hostel there, but ultimately, we changed our plans and stayed with Akram in Friends Hostel Area B.

MAP OF REFUGEE CAMPS WE VISITED

BETHLEHEM REFUGEE CAMP (Dheisheh)

Probably the most known place is to stay in Dheisheh in Bethlehem. Ibrahim was the first to ever start AirBNB in a refugee camp, showing tourists it was not what they thought. He is doing a great job, and now people from around the world come and stay in his flat with him, his partner Aya and their 3 kids.

Where to book: Book a stay with Ibrahim through Airbnb.

Staying with Abraham’s family in Dheisha Refugee Camp was one of the best experiences.

How to get there

Ibrahim will likely pick you up from Bethlehem Centre or give instructions on where to get a shared taxi and how to get to his house. It is only around 3.5 km from the city centre. When we arrived in Bethlehem, he arranged his friend who worked in a petrol station so we could leave our backpacks there. Then we explored Bethlehem, and later in the afternoon, Ibrahim picked us up in the centre and took us to his house.

He took time to explain his life in a refugee camp, his family situation and his life in a refugee camp. We appreciated the time spent together and the space to ask questions however we pleased. One morning, Ibrahim took us to the rooftop. There was an amazing view over the camp, and it was impossible not to see hundreds of water containers on the rooftops of houses. ,,We get water only 2 days per month” he said. They have to save as much water in those two days as possible; that’s why those containers.

The next day, we explored Mar Saba Monastery and the other refugee camp, AIDA, by ourselves. When Ibrahim returned from work in the evening, he took the kids and us to the store. Life seemed as normal as in any other city, but it was only a day ago when the Israeli army came and killed a 15-year-old boy in the early morning. Why? He threw rocks at the Israeli army cars. The number of stories similar to this one is endless. It is common for the Israeli army to come to the camps, especially in the early morning or night, to find and punish, or sadly even kill, the person suspected of things such as throwing rocks at Israeli cars. We spent two days with Ibrahim and his family, then continued to Hebron.

We had a lot of fun with Ibrahim’s daughter Alma.

Getting around Dheisheh Refugee Camp

Getting from and to Dheisheh refugee camp is very easy and safe. You can also wander the streets of the camp and search for graffiti art showcasing the faces of Palestinian Martyrs and victims. It is just a 5-minute walk down the hill to the main road, from where shared taxis leave either to Bethlehem or in the opposite direction to Hebron. Black and Yellow taxis are shared, and the price to Bethlehem is 3 ILS. Only yellow taxis are private and charge more.

EXPLORE THE AIDA REFUGEE CAMP IN BETHLEHEM

Another refugee camp in Bethlehem is AIDA. It is on the other side of Bethlehem, but you can easily take a shared taxi or private. We were invited for coffee by friendly guys in a car repair shop, and we felt very safe wandering around the streets of the Aida refugee camp. You once again will see the separation wall that limits the movement of people between Israel and Palestine and is covered in powerful graffiti.

Visiting Jerusalem? Read our one-day packed itinerary with top things to do in Jerusalem.

We were invited for a coffee in the Aida refugee camp in Bethlehem and met other incredible people.

Want to visit a refugee camp with a knowledgeable local person?

Maybe you don’t feel comfortable going to refugee camps alone or want insight from an experienced guide. Walking around and learning more from someone who lives in the area is not a bad idea. You can ask for a local guide in hotels in Palestine or Bethlehem Walled Off Hotel.

Aqabat Jabr – JERICHO REFUGEE CAMP

Jericho is one of the more stable areas in Palestine. You’ll find yourself in a tropical part of Palestine as soon as you arrive. Just a few km away, there’s a Dead Sea, and Jericho lies -260 m below the sea level, making it the warmest part of the country.

In Jericho refugee camp, the best option for travellers is to stay in the Sami Hostel. It is a family-run hostel in the heart of the refugee camp roughly 4 km from Jericho city centre. After our booking, we contacted Saleh, who explained how to get there and informed us that the camp is very safe. And he was right. We felt very safe and comfortable. Saleh made us tea after our arrival and sat down to discuss our plans; he gave us some recommendations about the area and explained how the shared taxi works and the prices we should pay. After we explored monasteries in Jericho, in the evening, his friends and brother came to the lobby to have tea with us, and we had a nice conversation.

Jericho refugee camp is located in unbelievable surroundings: mountains, palm trees and the Dead Sea in the distance.

People in Jericho are very friendly. Right opposite Sami Hostel is a small supermarket, so you can buy food there; there are also some small restaurants, so don’t worry about food. However, since we were busy exploring, we mostly ate in the Jericho Centre. Also, climb the stairs and a small ladder to get to the hostel rooftop to get an unbeatable view of Jericho and the mountains. We stayed here for two nights and can recommend Sami Hostel to you as the best place to stay in Jericho.

Where to book: Book Sami Hostel here.

We felt welcomed in all the refugee camps we visited during our 11-day independent trip through Palestine.

How to get there

You probably come to Jericho by shared taxi from another city in Palestine. Ask the driver to stop by the entrance to the refugee camp, as from there, it is a 1 km walk to Sami Hostel. Or optionally, get out of the shared taxi in Jericho centre and take a shared taxi that stays right next to the petrol station in the centre and goes to the camp (3 ILS). (odkaz na mapu). It stops right in front of the Sami hostel. We went to Jericho by direct shared taxi from Hebron. We asked the driver to drop us off in front of the refugee camp, where Saleh offered us a pickup and then drove us to Sami Hostel (but as I said, you can easily just walk).

Getting around Jericho Refugee Camp

A shared taxi that runs between camp and Jericho city stops in front of Sami Hostel and goes every few minutes (every 15-30 minutes). It drops you off in Jericho centre next to the petrol station.

This small roundabout is in front of the Sami Hostel in refugee camp. From here, shared taxis to Jericho centres leave.

HEBRON REFUGEE CAMP

We were supposed to stay in Hebron refugee camp as well, but in the end, we changed our mind because we got in touch with Akram from Friends Hostel Area B, and we got very nice vibes from him, so we decided to stay in Hebron’s old centre with him. Basically, he is super passionate about the situation in Palestine. Talking with him was a fantastic part of our journey, so we can only recommend staying with him. On the other hand, a stay in Hebron Hope guest house in a refugee camp is tempting as Hebron is one of the most troubling regions. I can only imagine you learn a lot in Hope Guesthouse as well.

Where to book: Book Hebron Hope guest house here.

Local guy took us to the roof of one house to get a view over Hebron. Israeli soldiers appeared within a minute and yelled at us to go away as it was impossible to be on the roof.

WHAT TO EXPECT

ENGLISH: People in Palestine speak mostly at least basic English, so it is easy to get around. During every stay in the refugee camp, the people we stayed with spoke fluent English, so the conversations were super easy.
FOOD: Bring your own food even though you might be offered food with your family. However, don’t expect it, as it is not a norm. We ate our own food.
ELECTRICITY: Electricity and the internet work very well in refugee camps; there is no need to worry
SAFETY: In all refugee camps, we felt safe and welcomed
TRANSPORT: You can read the transport in each refugee camp section. The shared taxi system is cheap, reliable and easy to find
INTERNET: The Internet in Palestine is very good. We recommend getting a SIM card in Israel – we paid 100 ILS ($28) for a Pelephone SIM card with 100 GB, unlimited use of apps such as Instagram and Facebook.
VPN: To access many sites in Palestine, it is necessary to use a reliable VPN app. Don’t use the free VPN apps, as they are unreliable, and there is always a safety risk as they can steal your data.

We always use NordVPN everywhere we travel. They have excellent services and very fast support, which is important when you need to access the internet quickly. In some countries we visited, VPN can be blocked, but after we contacted the helpdesk of NordVPN, they quickly navigated us how to connect. Check the link below for the discount option – sometimes you can get up to 65% discount for a 2-year plan.

Check the best prices for NordVPN here.

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Visit & Stay in Refugee Camps in the West Bank, Palestine

IT IS NOT WHAT YOU THINK

IS IT SAFE?

WHY SHOULD YOU STAY IN REFUGEE CAMPS IN PALESTINE